Week 2 - Food, Shoes, and Winchester

Week Two had things working toward a routine (I hope!).  Sunday I visited the Summertown farmer's market again.  Sadly, my favorite cheese vendor wasn't there, so I consoled myself with free range eggs and some delicious kale that I cooked up for lunch.  Farmer's markets are big here, and there are several in the Oxford area.  The Summertown market is every Sunday from 10-2 on Banbury Street.  There is also a good market in the Gloucester Green area on Wednesdays/Thursdays. 

 

One thing I did want to mention in this blog, is the great options for food in Oxford.  I eat a gluten-free diet 95% of the time.  One of my main worries about coming here was the availability of gluten-free fare.  But I've been pleasantly surprised at how commonly it is found.  Tesco in City Centre has a good selection of breads and cookies (even some American brands).  M & S in Summertown has fabulous gluten-free bread, crackers, etc., and they label their non-baked items well so you can see if gluten is present.  There is a good health food store in Summertown that carries a variety of products including cereals and pasta.  Regarding restaurants: Mama Mia's in Summertown offers gluten-free pasta dishes.  But my favorite eatery, hands down, is the Organic Deli Café off Friars Entry near City Centre.  They serve the best gluten-free pancake I've ever had in my life! 

 

 

Monday was spent writing all day.  Literally.  Then I went to the Church College Choir practice and Evensong service.  The psalms we chant are beautiful, but let me just say, the way they are written out, with separate musical staffs on the top of the page, and words on the bottom; it takes getting used to.  Thank goodness for the experienced choir members, who are great at giving pointers.

 

Tuesday, I had my second social policy tutorial -- she gave it a big thumbs up!  Hallelujah, because I literally was sweating blood and tears over that thing trying to complete it right up until the deadline to email it to her. 

 

Wednesday was reading and writing for my second political sociology essay, and the regular choir rehearsal.  Thursday was writing and turning in said essay via email.  Which brings me to my next tip for studying in Oxford.

 

Buy. Really. Good. Shoes. And. Socks.  At home, I walk about 3 miles a day for exercise, plus go to the gym a couple of times a week. Anotherwords, I'm in decent shape.  However, since coming here, despite using my wonderful bus pass, there are some places the buses don't go.  I thought I brought good shoes, but now I have achy feet and blisters.  Friday I went and bought some sturdier shoes and industrial strength socks.  I'm hoping my feet will thank me.

 

For those brave souls who don't want to walk everywhere, Oxford is a town addicted to bicycling.  If you can handle the consistent traffic, I say go for it!  Bike tip: get a D-clip lock, and register your bike with the local police once you've gotten the appropriate lights (it's required).  Bike thefts are a problem, so don't spent your $$ on a good bike and then have it get stolen. (Or, get fined by the police for not having the appropriate lights for night use.)

 

Friday afternoon I had my tutorial with Dr. Finlay.  I really enjoy the engagement he brings to the subject we are working on each week.  I think I'm learning more from the discussion than the reading and writing (which I do appreciate, but still).  Friday night was formal hall - black tie.  The Regent's Park kitchen staff outdid themselves with a wonderful dinner of an artichoke salad, beef burgundy, mashed potatoes, and chocolate tart.  It's a good thing I'm doing all this walking, to burn off the calories!

 

Finally... Saturday.  I have been working non-stop for the last two weeks in order to produce four essays of about 11,000 words in total.  So I decided to take today off and visit nearby Winchester. After a 1 1/2 hour train ride, I went to Winchester Cathedral, begun in 1079.  I took too many pictures of the cathedral to post here, but it was really incredible. 

 

Many notable figures are encrypted here, including several bishops, the founders of Corpus Christi and Magdalen Colleges, and Jane Austen.

Afterwards, I fulfilled a dream of mine and visited Chawton House, the location of the Jane Austen Museum, which had been her home.  Words can't describe how enjoyable it is to an ardent Austen fan like myself.  The desk in the photo is her writing desk.

 

Finally, (thanks to a recommendation by a friendly bus driver), I had a to-die-for cream tea at Cassandra's Teas, which is right across the street from the museum.  A perfect ending to a really good week :)

Week 1 - Reading, Writing, Walking, Reading, Writing, Walking...

The Michaelmas term officially started Sunday.  The pace of activity picked up and has not let up all week!  Sunday was spent doing reading, research, and writing for my first tutorial on Tuesday.  Like a lot of the tutors, she wanted me to submit the essay via email about 24 hours before we met, so she could have time to review it prior to our discussion. 

This is my desk in my room at the Spencer House.  The pile of books all came from the Social Sciences library, about 2 miles from the house.  No bus service, so I end up walking.  Did I mention we walk a lot in Oxford?

 

Monday was more writing and editing of my first essay.  Final word count, 2464.  Also attended a lecture in Sociocultural Anthropology.  As a student at the University of Oxford, you can attend any lecture whether a part of your discipline or not, as long as there is space in the lecture hall. 

 

Tuesday had my first social policy tutorial with my half-tutorial tutor, Funda Ustek.  When we attend as visiting students, we have to choose a combination of full and half tutorials. (The Brits don't use a credit hour system at Oxford and Cambridge.) A full tutorial equals about 9 credit hours, or 3 U.S. courses.  You meet for an hour, once a week for eight weeks to discuss your research and essay of 2000-3000 words.  A half tutorial is about 3-4 credit hours, so 1 U.S. course. You meet every two weeks for a total of four times, and discuss your essay and research.  She was happy at my choice of using the Elizabethan Poor Laws to discuss the origins of means-tested social policy.  We talked a lot about the history of social policy and the dynamics of the three types of welfare regimes in Europe and the U.S.

 

After our meeting, I attended another lecture on anthropology.  FYI, this lecture was held at the Pitt Rivers Museum - world famous for archaeology and anthropology. 

 

Then, guess what?  Back to the house to do reading and writing for my next tutorial on Friday.

 

Wednesday... reading and writing.  There is a repetitive pattern to this process!  I also received an invitation to tea at the home of my tutor Dr. Finlay and his wife Kath on Saturday afternoon.  In the evening I attended my first choir practice for the Christ Church College Choir.  (I had signed up to participate during Freshers Fair last week, and I passed my audition.)  It was dark by the time I got to Christ Church College, so I hope to post pictures taken at another visit.  Truly one of the most stunning facilities I've ever seen.  The cathedral is incredibly beautiful.

 

Thursday was more writing, then editing, then sending off my first political sociology essay to Dr. Finlay to have prior to our first tutorial meeting tomorrow.  I never knew I could read and write so much in a short time.

 

Friday - my first political sociology lecture, at the Exam School on High Street.  After a quick lunch on the run, I had my first tutorial with Dr. Finlay at Harris Manchester College on Mansfield Rd.  He was very engaging.  He spent a lot of time discussing the readings with me and ensuring that I had a comprehensive grasp of the material.  Then we discussed the first essay.  Overall, a good first try :)

 

Saturday, was .... MORE reading.  Articles and a new book from the Social Sciences library (walked the 2 miles again).  Then I rewarded myself for all my hard work this week by taking a "highlights" tour of the Ashmolean Museum.  I think I could live inside that place if they let me.

The top photo is an Italian Renaissance Painting; the bottom is Japanese pottery from the Meiji Period.

 

Saturday afternoon was spent taking the 16A bus from St. Algate's in front of Christ Church College to the home of my tutor and his wife.  They were tremendously gracious, and Mina (a fellow visiting student) and I had a lovely time getting to know them both.

 

Took the #2 bus back to the Spencer House, and made a quick market trip to M & S (Marks and Spencer) in Summertown to get some groceries just before they closed.  Now, time heat my dinner, make some tea and start reading my next research book.

Freshers/Week 0

 Exam School on High Street

 

The week before fall term starts at Oxford is affectionately referred to as "freshers week."  Freshers are anyone new to Oxford, be it undergrad or graduate student.  The week is full of orientations, inductions, and training to teach students about the interwoven world of Oxford's university system, colleges, and libraries.  Here are some of the highlights of the week for us as we prepared for term at Regent's Park College.

 

Our orientation for the University of Oxford took place Monday from 9-1 at the Exam School at High Street.  We received the official welcome from Vice-Chancellor Hamilton, and heard instructions from Dr. Helen Swift on the tutorial method.  The OUSU (Oxford University Student Union) gave details from the student's perspective including where to buy some essential items, and how to sign up for the multitude of clubs and extracurricular organizations.

 

The orientation took place in this room - the examination room - which according to Vice-Chancellor Hamilton, was a room dreaded by more than one Prime Minister, President, and corporate executive.  Most Oxford undergrads undergo an individual examination for each tutorial at the end of each term.  As visiting students, thankfully that doesn't apply to us!

 

 

Monday afternoon we had orientation for Regent's Park College, with instruction give by Dr. Lynn Robson, the Tutor for Visiting Student undergraduates.  One interesting fact about Regent's Park College: their motto is, "Test everything; hold on to what is good." 

 

Photo above: Regent's Park College "Quad" - a word used to describe the inner courtyard area inside most Oxford colleges.  It's surrounded on all four sides by buildings.  Photo below: The room behind all the bicycles is Helwys Hall, where the dining room is located.

 

Tuesday afternoon was the Regent's Park library induction - training on how to use the college library.  (By the way, the Angus Library is underground, and literally goes the length of a football field. It is the largest repository for Baptist Theological material in the world.  It also contains thousands of books on politics, philosophy, and the classics.)    Tuesday evening was the Fresher's Dinner at Helwys Hall, a welcome dinner for new students.  We were required to wear a "gown" which is considered appropriate over your evening attire for dinners at Regent's Park and at most of the Oxford colleges.  Gowns can be bought easily in Oxford, or if your lucky, you can borrow one from a grad student who no longer needs theirs.

 

Wednesday I had a tour of the Social Sciences library, which holds most of the resources specific to my research at Oxford, including sociology, psychology, economics, politics, and even a bit of philosophy. The Social Sciences library is next to St. Catherine's College, where one of our fellow CSU students is studying biology this term.  Both are on the east side of Oxford.  The Social Sciences building is currently undergoing renovation, like many buildings in Oxford.

 

 

Wednesday afternoon I met my political sociology tutor for my full tutorial (think 9 credit hours of U.S. work). Dr. Ian Finlay is a fellow of Harris Manchester College at Oxford.  He gave me the syllabus and reading list, we discussed topics, and he allowed me to personalize what topics I want to focus on.  The personalization factor is a big part of the tutorial method used at Oxford and Cambridge.  I'll meet him each week to discuss the 2000-3000 word essay I produce based on my research on the topic for the week.  He's also working with another American student, so she will meet with us to discuss the topic for four out of eight tutorials.  Thursday morning I met my second tutor, Funda Ustek, a doctoral student at St. Cross College who studied under Dr. Finlay as well.  She and I will meet every other week since I'm taking a half tutorial (think 3-4 credit hours) with her.  Studying at Oxford means you may take tutorials with tutors from "your" college, or you might work with a tutor from another partner college within the system.  A lot of it depends on the course you choose as well as the tutors' schedules for that term.  Many times a tutor will choose to work with a particular student who is studying a topic that the tutor is researching or has an interest in as well. 

 

Thursday was also Fresher's Fair - an event hosted by the Oxford University Student Union (OUSU).  Approximately 150 vendors have booths hoping to sign up students to participate in extra-curricular activities.  Options include everything from sports, arts, music, hobbies, course major, religious affiliation, political interest, charity and volunteer organizations, food and wine clubs, you name it they have a group for it!  I signed up to receive information for volunteer choirs, the C.S. Lewis club, and volunteering for local museums (Ashmolean and Pitt Rivers are my favorites!).  I've included a few photos taken from current exhibits at the Ashmolean.

 

Finally, to Friday! Thankfully, today I spent most of the day beginning research for the first two essays, one of which is due Tuesday.  Independent study is largely research driven, so TONS of reading is in order.  Tonight, I  attended my first official "formal" dinner at Regent's Park.  "Fancy dress" is required - nice dresses for ladies, jackets and ties for guys, plus your "gown."  Dinner was three courses: salad, steak and vegetables, and white chocolate custard for dessert (BYOW is optional).

 

What a week!  Tomorrow I've got a choir audition, and more research to do.  As Dr. Robson said to me today, "Well, we just don't want you to get bored your first week here."  I don't think there is any danger of that happening. 

 

 

The Bodleian and David Vaisey

Yesterday, thanks to Mr. Kyle Spencer, Dr. Neal McCrillis, and Mr. Larry Kees, I had an experience that few people can say they've had.  Along with fellow students from CSU, and Mr. and Mrs. Larry Kees, we were given a private tour of the Bodleian Library by retired Library Director, Mr. David Vaisey. 

Mr. David Vaisey, "Bodley's Librarian"

First: a bit of history about the Bodleian Library.  It's the second largest library in the United Kingdom, and one of the premier research libraries in the world.  While its origins started by a well-meaning bishop in the 1300's, the original book bequest was given by Duke Humphrey, younger brother to King Henry V, in about 1480.  The early library went through decline due to a lack of benefactors, until Sir Thomas Bodley, diplomat for Queen Elizabeth I, made restoring the library one of his life's legacies. It re-opened under his patronage in 1602, and since 1610 has received a copy of EVERY BOOK ever published in England.  Today their collection numbers over ten million books, plus numerous manuscripts, sculptures, coins, artifacts, and various other items.  Here's a link to learn more about the library's rich heritage:

http://www.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/bodley/about-us/history

 

Now, to Mr. Vaisey: what a fascinating man!  In the library's history since re-opening in 1602, the Bodleian has only had 24 directors, who were each given the title of "Bodley's Librarian."  Mr. Vaisey began working in the Bodleian in the 1960's as a junior library assistant, and worked his way up to the prestigious position of director from 1986-1996 when he retired.  

 

While guiding us through the labyrinth of the Bodleian's oldest section, dating from the Middle Ages, he shared stories of the various changes made to libraries worldwide as a result of the experiences of readers and researchers using the Bodleian. 

 

 

The library began with the room pictured above.  This room was the one originally planned by the Bishop of Worcester, who ran out of funds.  Then local masters of the University of Oxford, desperate for somewhere to house their personal book collections, appealed to Duke Humphreys, who provided some funds, but that also ran short before the building was completed. Finally, it was finished and opened in 1550.  This room was the lecture hall, and above it stood the library room itself.  Due to the delicate nature of the antique books stored in the room above, we weren't allowed to take photographs of the space :(  But to view books as old as the 1200's, and on subjects like philosophy, theology, and science... well, it was beyond words.

 

Factoid:  Books during the middle ages were stored bind side in, and attached with a chain to the shelf, which stood in rows throughout the library.  Readers consulted a directory to locate the correct shelf for their volume of interest.  They then pulled the chain to release the book, and the reader stood at a lectern while reading the book (which was either in Latin, High German, Greek, or Hebrew - no English, that's rubbish according to Sir Bodley!).  Sir Bodley decided this storage method was highly impractical, and unchained the books, stored them binds out, and added shelving along the walls, chairs, and desks for reading.  The user-friendly library method was born! 

 

 

 

This artifact is a wooden chair fashioned from beams extracted from the ship of Sir Francis Drake.  When the ships of this famous international explorer of the Elizabethan era were being demolished, a local carpenter used some salvaged wood to create a few pieces of furniture.  This chair is one of only three in existence.    The poem, written by A. Cowley, reads:

 



To this great Ship which round the Globe has run,

And matcht in Race the Chariot of the Sun,

This Pythagorean Ship (for it may claim

Without presumption so deserv'd a Name,

By knowledge once and transformation now)

In her New Shape this sacred Port allow.

Drake and his Ship could not have wish'd from Fate,

A more blest Station, or more blest Estate.

For Lo! a Seat of endless Rest is given,

To her in Oxford, and to him in Heaven.

 

 



 Mr. Vaisey shared so many wonderful things with us about the heritage of the Bodleian library.  After our tour was complete, he graciously allowed us to have a photograph with him.  So, here we are, seeking to be learned scholars, who will actually get to do research in this historic place once term starts next week. 

 

 

 (photo taken by the lovely Mrs. Rhonda Kees)

 

Learning the Way Around Town

This blog post will be full of photos of the jaunts around Oxford the first few days here.  The goal: to learn the outlay of the various streets, major landmarks, most commonly needed stores, and of course get my student I.D. at Regent's Park College.

 

 Oxford Covered Market - includes vendors selling local produce, meats, bakery items, and various consumer goods.  It's a labyrinth of shops located between streets near the City Centre.

 Watching the bakery artisans at work.

 

 

 

Blackwell's Book Shop - world renown booksellers. 

 

 

 

Oxford University Press - on Walton Street.  I've spent my fair share of money on books published by Oxford Press over the years!

 

 

 

The Eagle and Child Pub - famous for being the meeting location of the Inklings Club including members J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis.

 

 

 

 

The Ashmolean Museum -- which began with a collection dating to the 1620's.

 

Last, but not least - going to the Regent's Park College administration offices to get my university ID card. 

 

 

After viewing all of that, I think I've walked about five miles today.  Time to get some dinner, and rest my feet.  Upcoming this week: touring the Bodleian library.

 

 

 

 

 

 



Leaving the U.S. and Arriving in Oxford

I spent most of Saturday and Sunday packing and re-packing my two suitcases.  Thanks to Delta's rules, I'm allowed one checked bag weighing under 50#, and one carry-on measuring less than 21".  This seemed like the impossible task!  The sweaters and boots alone seemed to fill the checked bag.  Eventually, I made it under the limit according to my home scale, and I headed to the International Terminal of Hartsfield International Airport in Atlanta.  The updated international wing is fabulous!  Much faster check in time than my previous international flights.  I think it helped that I left Sunday night at 9:50 pm.  There was little tourist traffic or business travel at that time on a Sunday. 

 

Once I arrived at Heathrow, I went through U.K. customs, then caught a bus to Oxford.  It was at the #10 bus stop of Terminal 5.  Due to the volume of incoming Oxford students, I ended up waiting in a line ("queu") of people who also waited through the coming and going of two buses before the third bus finally had enough space to accommodate us. 

 

(Photos taken on bus going to Oxford)

Once I arrived at Heathrow, I went through U.K. customs, then caught a bus to Oxford.  It was at the #10 bus stop of Terminal 5.  Due to the volume of incoming Oxford students, I ended up waiting in a line ("queu") of people who also waited through the coming and going of two buses before the third bus finally had enough space to accommodate us. 

 

When I arrived at Oxford, the bus deposited me at the City Centre, where I caught a bus to the Spencer House, 182 Woodstock Rd.  The taxi driver had a bit of difficulty locating the house, but we finally found the gate entrance to the house, which was a welcome site indeed after 14 hours of travel!

 

 

The Spencer House is a wonderfully arranged home - very easy to feel at home in the setting.  I unpacked.  The setting is lovely - in a beautifully historic neighborhood called Summertown.

 

 

Spencer House

 

 



The view outside the Spencer House gate.  The house is located at the intersection of Woodstock and Moreton roads. 

 

My first day in Oxford was complete.  I got there safely, familiarized myself with the house, and the nearby streets and Summertown community.  Tomorrow, I'll head into the City Centre of Oxford to walk the downtown area and get to know where the critical landmarks are.